Showing posts with label Day 28. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Day 28. Show all posts

Sunday, 29 July 2018

Day 28-30: Porto to Lisbon, Portugal - Sick and Tired

Porto to Lisbon, Spain -
There is a very strange television show that screens at night in Portugal, which is imported from Spain. Whilst I was in Porto, I became addicted to it and with the exception of the last evening when we fine-dined at Antiqvvm, my eyes were glued to the set in greedy anticipation. The premise of the programme is that a bloke and a lady are dropped off on an island and they meet one another totally naked. They hang out, talk, play games and sometimes frolic about. The next day, another nude dude rows a boat out to the island and acts as an interloper as such with his cock hanging out. Then it is his turn to get to know the woman whilst the original bloke does his best to avert his eyes from the intruder's package. At the conclusion of the show, the lady picks which gentleman that she presumably shags (probably again) and the rejected guy buggers off to do hell knows what. Move over Love Island, this is the future of entertainment.

Hotel rooms are relatively small and I have learned to adapt to living in the same tiny space with the twink, which is roughly the size of my bedroom and ensuite back in Melbourne, or London for that matter. Air conditioning is always nice to have but now I must plan to be the first in the bathroom to have a shower and use the toilet in the morning. I tend to get distracted by work after rolling out of bed and if I delay my usual personal hygiene regime until after the twink uses the toilet, I am left disgusted. His diet has devolved over the last month which means what he deposits into the porcelain throne not only stinks up the bathroom and makes it unusable but for some time but the noisome odour will matriculate into the general living area and make me hate living (and working) in a hotel room. I have learned to adapt my schedule though - I use the bathroom before he locks himself in it for thirty minutes, however planning movements (sic) like this, is not something that I am used to being an only child.

Before checking out of the Mercure Porto, I drove the twink the local laundromat to clean all of our clothes before I returned to pack my possessions and conclude a few webex sessions. Checking out from the hotel was straight-forward and I was surprised that the alcohol bill wasn't huge despite the barman pushing a few glasses of expensive Port that is older than both of us combined after we first turned up at the hotel. Not much time was spent in the hotel bar fortunately since Porto is such a great place to wander around and explore and I left delighted, although fatigued. After collecting the twink from the laundromat, we hauled arse down the motorway listening to the latest album by 30 Seconds to Mars. I prefer their older stuff but after having the sophomore album by 5 Seconds of Summer on repeat, I am confident that the twink appreciated the change.

I planned a stop at one of the roadside service stations conveniently at the time I needed to pump more diesel into the tank but also right before I had my last webex session scheduled for work. We found the picnic area which is a lovely shaded enclave and I set up shop on a table. Just as the webex session started, not one, but two large families decided to push their prams, screaming children and begin to unpack their picnic baskets into what was once a sombre area. The screaming kiddies upset the cicadas in the trees and they started making a fair amount of noise. I toddled off and stood in the sun far away from the unexpected chaos and shouted into the phone. The meeting organiser neglected to ring in and after some pleasant conversation about the weather in England, everyone wished each other a good weekend. Minutes later, I was pumping diesel into the motorcar and speeding down the expressway like a bat out of hell.

As it was laundry day, I was strategically wearing my gym shorts and singlet and looked very bogan (redneck) with my hair standing high in the air showing off my embarrassing tan lines. The twink mentioned that since I wasn't wearing boxer briefs, I wasn't exactly hiding what I have on offer but since I was rather tired after the 300km drive and a bit hungover after the degustation the previous night at Antiqvvm, I really didn't give a toss. When I presented myself to Reception at the Mercure (Lisboa) Lisbon, I observed the lady at reception give my black nylon shorts an extend look and greeted me without looking at me in the eyes before taking our passports. She assigned us to the "privilege" floor which meant free soft drinks and juices from the minibar though. We agreed to spend the evening in the hotel bar (as I didn't want to change and play tourist in Lisbon, as I had previously visited the city for nearly a week not long ago) and really just wanted to relax. We quickly found seats at the bar and I introduced the twink to Vinho Verde which is "green wine" from the Minho province in Portugal. Basically, its very young wine but certain vintages are really tasty I have found. It is hit and miss. The bar-lady claimed to have a bottle that wasn't on the menu and poured us a bit to taste. "We will have that!" I exclaimed, sat back and enjoyed the booze. The bartender and the twink kept their eyes on my gym shorts as I quaffed back the majority of the bottle and asked for another one.

After a lady with a Canadian accent presented herself at the bar, she asked the bar-lady for a "light" beer. I spoke to her partner about my green wine which he had never heard of before whilst the Canadian began to sip from her glass of Sangres. I asked her if she wanted an amber coloured beverage or a low alcohol content beer like is usually on tap in North America. She admitted that she wanted lone with low alcohol content and proceeded to say that pint of beer was only the third beer that she had had in her life and she is 46 years old. She then articulated her outrage about being charged 10€ for butter at lunch. Apparently, she kept requesting the small individually wrapped morsels of butter and the restaurant that she was at charged her 1€ for each square. I could not help but laugh as she proceeded to tell me how good the chicken was. Nobody has ever charged me for butter, and that is just outrageous. Who eats that much butter anyway? Not long after her confession, she met an American who professed to be a "property broker" in Lisbon and he was doing the hard-sell on the Canadian's parents to invest US$100k in property which would supposedly yield a 10% return. The twink made me promise not to say anything and even threatened to leave the bar if I interjected in their private and ridiculous conversation. I instead took interest in the third bottle of Vinho Verde and kept my nose out of their business. Fools and their money, or so they say. I ended up getting drunk and thought it would be a good idea to buy some cryptocurrency but since both Monzo and Lloyds Bank blocked the transaction, I ended up transferring the cash onto my car loan. Makes sense right?

On Saturday morning the twink insisted on chilling out at the hotel whilst I brewed coffee from the machine in the room. He didn't feel well, so we made a deal and didn't leave until 11:00 AM on the dot. With the sun shining unencumbered by clouds and the UV index registered as high, I sadly applied sunscreen to my face, neck and upper chest since I was wearing a "V" cut shirt. Sunscreen clogs my pores and I begin to sweat profusely when I heat up, which only took a matter of minutes after leaving the hotel as we walked to the Metro. I became uncomfortable so quickly that I ordered an Uber to take us to Old Town in Lisbon, which would have cost the same as taking the bloody Metro anyway. Despite the Uber driver having made nearly 2,000 trips, she didn't seem very confident on the road and avoided getting into two accidents which made me happy with the decision to not to drive into Alfama - Old Town Lisbon.

We roamed the streets which were still familiar to me as I had previously visited Lisbon for a week in December 2016. General malaise quickly overcame the twink, but he soldiered on, walking 15,000 steps before insisting on shade and liquids. Every few minutes we were offered "hash, marijuana or coke" from one of the dodgy blokes selling fake sunglasses to the tourists. I quizzed the last one if he had heroin and he was shocked or disgusted, I am not sure, but it was probably a combination of the two. We found a free table outside at the Time Out Markets (sponsored by the free magazine) and I ordered cod. The twink just wanted Coca-Cola and claimed the smell of greasy food in Alfama was going to make him vomit only minutes ago. The twink is not one to complain, which made me believe he was indeed feeling awful. He was happy to sip on Coca-Cola as I quickly guzzled two pints of beer and shoved the tasty cod down my throat. After, we found a bar on the edge of the river with a free table under an umbrella. We spent a good three hours people watching with the statue of Christ high on the hill across the river in the background. The twink drowned his sorrows with Coke and I imbibed on pints of beer before ordering an Uber. The Uber driver has to have been the best one that I ever have had and was an awesome conversationalist and had us laughing our arses off. Sadly he got us back to the Mercure before we were done taking the piss, long before our phones were exhausted.

The twink regenerated in the hotel room whilst I hung out in the hotel bar and enjoyed another bottle of Vinho Verde before retiring myself. It wasn't a truly action-packed day as I wanted to take the tourist ferry down the river however they only accepted cash despite having an EFT machine on the desk within the kiosk. Portugal seems to be a cash-based society which I find strange, but I do applaud the twink for originally agreeing to go on the boat feeling as sick as he did. The hours of drinking beer on the edge of the river were much nicer in retrospect and it was the highlight of my short visit to Lisbon.

In the morning I didn't rush the twink to get his arse moving and instead let him snore whilst I read the frustrating Australian news. He proclaimed that he felt better once conscious and he was keen to get on the road and play the role of tourist. The excursion to Lisbon was only for the weekend and after a relatively low-key time with a few good laughs (especially after meeting the lady who paid the butter tax) I recharged myself as after thirty days of being on the road, I was starting to get burned out but even now as I type, I have a new sense of enthisasm for the next few weeks which are planned in Spain, Gibraltar and Morrocco. I am happy to report that the twink is on the mend and nearly free of his general malaise and has committed to improving his diet. Praise be.

Next stop: Faro, Portugal





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Saturday, 28 July 2018

Day 24-28, Porto Portugal -

A Coruna to Sanxenxo to Braga to Guimaraes to Porto - 
After the second best sleep on this road trip (Yes, I still think back with some emotion to the morgue-like conditions at the Mercure in Biarritz, France) we checked out of the Ibis Styles with some fanfare. I did have an argument with reception as they wanted to bill me for the accommodation and I insisted that I owed only for the limited alcoholic beverages that we enjoyed in the rather sedate bar. I produced an e-mail from the hotel showing that I pre-paid and the balance due at the hotel was nil, but once again the lovely lady insisted that the hotel never debited my card because I had used points to enjoy a discount on the overarching tariff. After consulting my Monzo application three times and examining all the many transactions that had cleared, I sadly agreed with the hotel that they never charged me so with reluctant enthusiasm I entered my PIN and minutes later we drive out of the underground car park unencumbered by the trivialities of a bill and money.

Google Maps took us on the "free" route out of town as the twink had modified the settings so the AI avoided toll roads for some strange reason. I found myself driving the same road that I took the previous day to Santiago, which is lovely but when you are motoring with an alert blaring at you on the command centre of the vehicle advising that you are driving on fumes, there is not much enjoyment as you power down the scenic road. As we rolled into the service station that existed on Google Maps but had obviously shut down years prior, I became concerned that the tank would run dry. We did manage to find another service station 5km away and as the motorcar puffed to a grinding halt, I asked the twink to pump the diesel as I was in desperate need to vacate my bladder.

I ran into the shop looking for the fabled door to the toilet and when I couldn't find one, I ran outside and to the rear of the establishment. Being a bloke, I can let loose the excess fluids and thought that the back of the station would be convenient. I was wrong. There was a makeshift carwash and after sighing, I jogged up a small dirt hill into the brush thinking I could relieve myself only to find an older lady pushing herself along on a zimmer frame. Busting, I ran back to the service station. "Donde estan los servicios?" The bloke sensed I was from some other country and took great care to point me in the right direction. I made it just in time before my shorts ended up resembling the ones that the twink pissed on the other night. Joy. I returned to the motorcar and noticed that 25 litres was pumped into the tank. I sprinted to the window of the service station and pounded on the window, gesticluating madly at the twink who was graciously paying for the diesel not to do it as I needed to pump more. It is a 55 litre tank after all. After some argy-bargy with the attendant who insisted that my tank was full, I shoved the nozzle back into the Benz and pumped another 27 litres into into it. She couldn't believe that the tank that was supposedly so full, much like my bladder only minutes before this experience could accept more. I happly paid the bill one again and silenty forgave the twink knowing that he had never pumped a tank of petrol in his life and it must have been confusion being consulted by a station attendant in a language that he didn't know a word of.

Whilst drinking my fair share of the bottles of San Miguel a few nights prior, I came across a list that nominated the beach at Sanxenxo in Spain as the "2nd best" sand beach in Europe. We rambled in and ditched the motorcar on the street avoiding the cost of parking and began to wander around aimlessly. For whatever reason despite knowing that it was going to be warm, I decided to wear my fashionably torn black skinny jeans on this sunny day after feeling at home in them whilst I enjoyed the degustation only 24 hours prior. It didn't take long until I felt beads of sweat following the laws of gravity down my legs and the awkward feeling that my cotton boxer briefs provide when they become saturated with sweat. I would have been the only dickhead within 5km of this glorious beach to be wearing trousers, let alone black skinny jeans. We retreated into a beachside tapas bar and ordered the menu of the day. It consisted of octopus pulpa and one of the largest cuts of steaks that I have had in my life along with a tomato and onion salad. The daily deal also included a "jug" of wine. The server brought out a bottle of white and a bottle of red and told us in broken English to enjoy as much as we want. FML. I sighed knowing I had a few more hours to drive and polished off half the bottle. The twink guzzled his bottle of white and was ready to party as I sadly waved farewell to the amazing Sanxenxo beach, quietly hoping to return next year.

We crossed the border into Portugal after driving the coast road from Sanxenxo which as an aside is a beautiful drive. Curiously once in Portugal, the quality of the highway degraded just a bit and the driving skills of those using it declined in proportion. I found it strange that despite going 20 km/hr over the speed limit in the "slow lane" that other motorists would come within centimetres to tailgate me for a minute before passing in the fast lane. In many cases, after they passed they would slow to the speed limit so I would have to, in turn, pass them again. Madness. If this happened once or twice I wouldn't blink an eye but as you can see, I am writing about it. There are terrible drivers in Portugal and the status quo on the highway seems to be to hog two lanes, even whilst passing another vehicle. Driving here isn't as unnerving as it is in Italy though.

The next stop was Braga in Northern Portugal. It was recommended by a Portuguese colleague that provided a long list of things to do whilst in her native country. We toured the amazing Cathedral after paying 6€ to gain entry and then wandered the city and looked at other edifices that were built in His hame.

Google Maps was showing red across the small area on the outlying roads so I suggested that we drive to Born Jesus Do Monte which was also on the list that was provided. I paid the 1€ entry to get into the car park at the top of the hill and then wandered around the beautiful gardens that provide expansive views over Porto and beyond. Walking down 300 or so steps seemed like a good idea at the time to get a photo of the asymmetry of the grounds; statues and the church, but the walk up was a mare. I realised that I was in much better physical shape a month ago, and felt puffed and was a sweaty mess as we took the last step back at the summit. The church itself on the exterior is beautiful but upon presenting ourselves inside it was under renovation and signs apologised on a Kardashian scale for the inconvenience caused. Beautiful on the outside but rather shit and under renovation internally.

The next stop was Guimaeres which was also on the aforementioned hit list since this is known as the birthplace of Portugal. Again, the 10th-century castle was a recommended stop and we found a gaggle of boys hunting Pokemon at the castle gates. Nearby, the Dukes of Braganca Palace reminded me of a structure that would be found in France and after returning to the castle, the Pokemon hunters had left, allowing me to take a few amazing photographs.

The jaunt into Porto was met with traffic and it was only after a few pints at the hotel bar at Mercure Gaio that I was able to take the edge off and relax after a very long day which also included doing my day job if you can believe it.

A midday start the following day found us parking the motorcar near the beguiling Duoro River. We found a tapas restaurant where the owner was happy to pour port in anticipation of our custom, which we enjoyed along with the suggested tasting menu. It was a lovely experience until the bill came and I was told that their credit card machine was broken. "Perhaps you should put a sign on the door saying so," I suggested. The lady mumbled in broken English that a sign had been affixed but it must have fallen off. Normally, this wouldn't be a big deal, but Porto is situated on a hill and it was hot outside. I took to the streets and walked up the steep the hill to where Google advised me an ATM existed, but it was not part of my network and would not spit out Euro. I walked back down the hill to the river, found another ATM, removed money and was charged -7% of the live exchange rate and returned to pay the bill. The lesson learned is always to ask if the establishment not only accepts a card, but it is working before settling in. I was deceived by the sticker on the door saying they accept Mastercard (or Visa) so alas...

We staggered to the funicular which in theory would take us back up the hill but called in at some riverside wine bar to quench our thirst. The sun was shining and we were thirsty after walking 500m. One round of 20-year old port turned into many bottles and all sorts of tomfoolery that lasted for six hours. I stripped down to my underwear and was about to run down the promenade to the Luis I bridge to jump into the river with the other boys when I was advised that my general intoxication may lead to my drowning and was talked out of the foolish leap into the Duoro. We did somehow get the Benz out of the underground carpark and back to the Mercure just in time for the twink to heave the beautiful Port he consumed into the toilet.

The next day neither of us were feeling very energetic and I was happy to work nearly naked with the air conditioning blasting on me as I yelled at the laptop on WebEx to verify that our colleagues who work in the subcontinent were executing the approved change control that I diligently chase all week for approvals. Again, wanting to follow the list of suggested places to visit for lunch, we bathed and got down the perpetual road to Leixoes which I discovered is an industrial seaside town. We walked into the restaurant A Cozinha da Maria by chance after everything else was closed on a Monday afternoon. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is locally owned and operated for longer than my father has been alive. We were treated to some amazing service, great seafood soup and the fish of the day. I was concerned when I chomped on some fish bones and also the pit of an olive but my teeth were intact after the meal thankfully and engorged, we left and decided that I would postpone our extravagant dinner plans that night because of exhaustion and just from being spent. The Mercure hotel concierge was happy to ring the restaurant and in fluent Portuguese, thankfully rebooked our dinner reservation for the following night which allowed us to languish in the hotel bar and mercifully relax; consuming a few bottles of white Port, which enabled us to chat with fellow travellers of the night.

Feeling like a normal human being once again after sleeping in the frigid conditions overnight, I was enthusiastic about delivering my daily tasks at work. We once again drove into the centre of Porto and abandoned the vehicle. After a brisk walk down the hill, we found a shop that was advertising chocolate and port tastings. Who could say no? Three morsels of chocolate and then three glasses of Port (paired of course) was a substitute for lunch before finding our way finally to the funicular. Thankfully we were not sucked into the open arms of the wine shop where we drank for six hours only two days prior. We were delivered to the top of the city for 5€ all up, only to meander down the hill once again. We happened upon yet another wine shop where the Brazilian owner was happy to ply us with Port, cheese and meats free from the nonsense of fellow tourists and we had a chat which was utterly delightful about drugs, politics and everything Porto. We spent a few hours at his shop before liberating the motorcar from its tomb and returning to the Mercure for a needed nap.

After regenerating, we both dressed in casual black colours, with me pulling on the ripped skinny jeans once again and we drove across the bridge. We presented ourselves at Antiqvvm, which is the best restaurant highlighted in the Michelin guide and the 'the must-do' destination in Porto. We were looked at suspiciously as we presented ourselves as other tourists took photos with their Fendi bags and Americans spoke with business jargon in one corner. We were after the extended degustation, which the restaurant was happy to deliver along with three bottles of wine instead of the matching option. Although the restaurant had a great view and garden, I found it rather generic. Unlike the meal last Sunday which I talk about to this day, where all the elements were sourced from Galacia and the staff struggled to speak English equally as I struggled with Spanish, it provided a sense of regional authenticity, At Antiqvvm, I felt like I was in a restaurant in Melbourne. Don't get me wrong, it was a great meal, but after dropping 444€ I wanted more of a memorable regional experience and not a destination restaurant where the tourists are taking selfies and acting like dickheads with polished services that is tailored for those with the tourist dollars. Great food and wine, but it was nothing special that I want to return to. It did provide some Instagramable food moments though #foodporn.

After a few glasses of port at the Mercure Gaio bar to finish the night, it was time to retire feeling bloated and happy. I didn't spend enough time in Porto and hoped to do more but the one day of required downtime after the mammoth day of drinking Port in the sun disappointed me in the end. I can do better. I can manage time better. My liver can work better. The road trip is only 28 days into it after all.

Next stop: Lisbon, Portugal 


























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