Saturday, 7 July 2018

Days 3-5: St Brieuc France - Relax, Don't do it...

St Brieuc to La Rochelle, France
After what would have been the best sleep I had in a month, I woke up and shook off the remains of the white wine headache when the alarm began shouting at me at 6:30 AM. I was so full of energy for once that I not only wrote a blog post but visited the gym, all before sadly pulling out my work laptop and authenticating via the VPN client. During the first of the many daily meetings, I penned a letter of complaint about the awful hotel in Dieppe. It was filled with colourful adjectives as you can appreciate and as of this writing, the management is still investigating the valid points that I raised. I didn't bother articulating my view through the window was spoiled by the volume of seagull shit as that would not have been civil I suppose.

Although I wasn't hassled much at work on Monday, it proved to be fraught with report writing and cost forecasting which I detest. In the air-conditioned luxury of the hotel room at the Novotel, I didn't mind the drudgery for once. We wandered into the historical area of St Brieuc, which looked like a dystopian dream of long abandoned shops, zombies milling about and wayward youths just languishing around. We sat at a table in a calm plaza and requested two glasses of wine. Everyone around us was getting on the piss, including a gentleman at the table next to us who didn't seem to be too concerned that a bird had shit on his head. With broken French words I attempted to order lunch but it was all stuffed up. Instead of mussels, sausages came out along with the "plat du jour" which was some sort of reheated breaded fish. I had to go back and do more work, which I didn't mind since there really wasn't much to see in St Brieuc, at least on foot. The night was spent in the hotel bar watching Japan's failed world cup clash against Belgium, enjoying a modest three-course bland dinner and drinking four bottles of the local white.

The massive effort in the Novotel bar on Monday night meant I didn't wake up feeling as spry and energetic as the previous day. I ignored the alarm squelching and went back to sleep and got out of bed only a few minutes before my first scheduled conference call three hours later. I suffered through a morning of jargon, shouting at the laptop and frantically updating actions on a spreadsheet. Then a powerpoint presentation was updated for a weekly report that I send out that nobody reads. How do I know this? I e-mail it encrypted which will force a return read receipt even if it goes to a foreign domain. I can't remember when someone last read this report and considering I walk a gaggle of people through it on a weekly call, it bemuses me that nobody bothers to open it.

I consulted the Michelin guide and we found ourselves at the relatively understated L'Air du Temps for lunch. This time ordering the three courses was much easier because the chalkboard was placed in front of our faces and there were not many options. A bottle of red from Bourdeaux was enjoyed, a glass of it in the laneway after I excused myself to ring into some boring meeting that thankfully finished up quickly. I scoffed down the casserole of meat and fresh veggies and thankfully cleansed my palate with stinky cheese and the remains of the bottle. Once again I returned to the hotel to respond to e-mails and chase others in even more exotic overseas regions to action items. After another wander around the town, once I finished my daily duties, we found ourselves once again in the air-conditioned Novotel bar and drinking the local white wine once again late into the evening watching England win their world cup match thankfully.

Wednesday yielded rain and again, little enthusiasm to rise early and visit the gym. I started in on my professional tasks early which meant we could meet for lunch at the Donkey, which is just a coffee shop after cheap labour was exploited at the local laundromat to wash our sweat-stained clothes from the last few days. He didn't mind and I was told that the locals were practising their understanding of the English language whilst our clothes tumbled back to a state of cleanliness. I ordered the tuna on a bagel but it turned out to be from a can mixed with beetroot. The cold vanilla latte was nice and reminded me of something that you could easily source in Melbourne. After I closed my work laptop for the day, we once again went for a long walk around town. After stopping for two small cups of cider at a brasserie where it was hard to get service, it was back to the Novotel bar for the usual bottles of white before pulling up stumps early and retiring.

It turned out to be a very calm sojourn to St Brieuc which is what I designed as part of the overarching plan. After the chaos of the previous month of moving out of London and the usual social responsibilities, I needed a break in air-conditioned bliss in a hotel that ironically was listed in my Michelin guide. A hotel that I highly recommend.


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A post shared by Chezdon Mitchell (@chez5sos) on

A post shared by Chezdon Mitchell (@chez5sos) on

Tuesday, 3 July 2018

Day 2: Dieppe, Caen, Mont Saint-Michel, St Brieuc France - The Savagery of War

Dieppe to Caen to Mont-Saint Michel to St Brieuc, France
Sleep eluded me for most of the night. The hot stale air didn't force my limp body to sweat however after laying in state for a few hours watching some French language variety show, I finally drifted off. I wasn't stirred from my slumber by sirens and rumbling motorbikes for a change though. This time I was roused from my light sleep by the aggressive squawking seagulls that enjoyed all sorts of tomfoolery near the hotel. I couldn't help but giggle as embattled sounds of the wild are much preferred to the alternative. My alarm finally woke me up at the usual early hour sadly as I needed to ring into a scheduled call and check in on the status of some work that was being carried out south of London

A cold shower motivated us to leave the awful stuffy hotel and emerge into the humid light of day. The imposing Chateau de Dieppe overlooks the beach and stands at the terminus of the waterfront near the memorial to the thousands of Canadian lives that were lost on 19 August 1942 in the aborted Dieppe Raid. I learned that despite the Allied retreat that there was a level of electronic intelligence achieved and this raid influenced the preparations for Operation Overlord - the future Allied Normandy landings a few years later.

Not wanting to give any money to the shitty so-called four-star Mercure, we enjoyed petit dejeuner at a neighbouring hotel after walking the length of the waterfront. Tanks once rolled over this beach where kiosks are now erected selling ice cream, coffee and souvenirs. It is easy to become sullen when you consider the history of the area whilst shoving ham, cheese and half of a croissant into your gob.

The organ was being played at the gothic Saint-Jacques Church. The dulcet sounds reverberated through my body as I wandered the medieval streets of the fishing port. My only regret was not sitting outside of the Cafe des Tribunaux at least for a coffee before we collected our bags and drove away with the motorcar windows down.

We pressed on to Caen via the toll road. Traffic moved relatively quick at 130 km/hr. The highway was in the same state that you would find in Australia, however, you would be publicly tarred and feathered in the press and labelled a potential baby killer for "speeding" in that country at that rate of travel. You would also be fined heavily - an amusing thought as we got on down the road unencumbered and sweating whilst sipping from the bottles of water purchased from the Dieppe Carrefour.

I was keen to have a wander around the city of Caen which was a battlefront between the British and Germans in WW2 during the Battle of Normandy. I drove up to the War Memorial which is actually a large museum where they charge 20€ for an entry pass per person. Normally on the first Sunday of each month, access to museums in France are free but this one must be an exception. I learned that this city was bombed to rubble and the population decreased from 60,000 to 17,000 over a short time. The former Church of Saint-Etienne-le-Vieux remains in ruins in the centre of Caen, a timely reminder of the savagery of war. It is worth a visit, along with the Hotel de Ville across the road.

With the windows down and now sporting my Lancashire Cricket Club hat, we motored along the expressway towards Mont Saint-Michel. I stopped at the German War Cemetery en route. I was surprised that such an imposing structure was built, including vaults to house the remains of the dead. The only other German war graves I had previously visited were in Belgium and the plot of land looked in disarray in comparison to this site which has a marvellous view of Mont Saint-Michel from the top of the hill.

We abandoned the motorcar in the parking area near Mont Saint-Michel and took a ride on the free bus along the bridge to the island commune. Not being tourist virgins to this site, we grabbed an overpriced cheese toasty and wandered around and didn't pay to go to the top. Hot, sweaty and fatigued, we wanted to retreat down the motorway one last time and meet our destiny at the next hotel which was pre-booked in St Brieuc. I was delighted to find air-conditioned bliss along with a room upgrade. A much-needed cold shower was enjoyed before enjoying the delights of the local wines, all which arrived corked.

Life is good.

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A post shared by Chezdon Mitchell (@chez5sos) on

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Monday, 2 July 2018

Day 1: Manchester UK to Dieppe France - Something is Awry

The journey begins. Let the good times roll.
Manchester (Salford) UK to Dieppe, France


It was with great anticipation and fanfare departing Manchester this morning ahead of schedule. Maybe it was the 9% alcohol by volume local craft beer that I was drinking last night combined with the horrible nights of sleep over the last fortnight, but in general, my body is buggered. By this point in the day, I had taken six Sudafed tablets with the hope of controlling the malaise which includes a very runny nose, sneezing and watery eyes. I am hopeful that after a much anticipated proper night of sleep will shake the disease.

The drive from Manchester to Newhaven (271mi/436km) took around six hours - an hour wasted because of roadworks on the M6 and congestion. A single break involved a brief stop at a roadside service station to purchase a tank of diesel and two bottles of Dr Pepper. The attendant asked us if we were doing anything interesting today with little real interest. I responded by saying, "going to France" with a smile. She asked if that is where I am from. Come on! I have a dodgy hybrid accent but I have never been accused of being French. "L'horreur!" I shouted and she didn't get it.

Traffic on the London Orbital near Heathrow was predictably awful. There was congestion heading in every direction, including towards the sea which is where we were going. Just when I thought that the interior of the motorcar might be getting too cold, the air conditioning stuttered and the joyous cold air quickly morphed into a hellish draft direct from a fissure from hell. I paid to have the system recharged and hygienically cleaned after I purchased the vehicle a month ago. Frustrated and dumbfounded, the windows had to be retracted as we rolled into Newhaven with a few hours to spare before the car ferry was scheduled to leave.

With my eyes watering and violently sneezing, I ordered a chicken sandwich from The Ark in the working harbour at Newhaven, desperate for some sort of sustenance. My dinner last night consisted of two huge scotch eggs which looked like inflamed testicles and the aforementioned craft beer. I was in probably the only bar in Manchester that had air conditioning running blissfully on full blast. I ingested more Sudafed, blew my nose and forced the chicken burger down my throat. It was awful. The bloke behind the counter offered his opinion as I ordered and claimed it is really good so I knew I would be disappointed. Two chicken burgers and two diet cokes came to more than I could simply tap and go on the EFT machine as the bill was more than £30. Shocking. I had to suffer the indignity of pressing the numbers on the machine as beads of sweat rolled down my back.

With time on our side, we drove along the coast to Brighton. The unwashed masses were sunning their collective pale skin on the rocky foreshore. Revellers sipped from pint glasses as they looked out to the sea somehow as a phalanx of cars, mine included, crawled down the road with the alacrity of a newborn escaping the womb for the first time. Scaffolding had been erected around the Grand Hotel and it is undergoing a facelift. The last time this probably happened was when the IRA blew it up thinking that they would take out Margaret Thatcher.

Back in Newhaven, the check-in procedure for the ferry was painless. We drove to the gate, presented our passports and since I had pre-purchased tickets and associated our journey with the registration number of my disabled motorcar, passing into the waiting zone was easy. Fortunately, we were directed to the first lane which was shrouded in blissful shade.

After ditching the vehicle where we were told to leave it, we were directed to the restaurant and bar area of the vessel. A band was setting up. Televisions were broadcasting the jubilation of the very recent France victory over Argentina (4-3) in their World Cup match. I took another two tablets of Sudafed, kept my sunglasses on and tried not to move as the ferry roared to life and disembarked from the port. The cover band belted out classics that made the majority of people seated on the deck, level 7, flee to the back of level 6 just to get away from the noise.

The four-hour journey over the English Channel felt like it went by quickly. Very limited WiFi is available on the boat which made WhatsApp useable but not much else. Still hungry after my poor late lunch, I rolled the dice and ordered spaghetti bolognese from the "restaurant" which could easily be confused with the canteen from high school. This time the food tasted like it came from a can and I imagined 100-gallon drums of spaghetti being stored somewhere on this ship of fools. I wandered outside to watch the blood red sun begin to set in the distance just as an announcement was made in two languages that we will be arriving in Dieppe shortly.

Ours was the third vehicle to drive off the ferry which meant we visited the EU immigration officer within a minute. Our passports were handed to him from the relative comfort of the motorcar (it was no longer warm outside and the lack of air conditioning was no longer annoying me) and we were quickly sent on our way without a question being asked. After passing two gates, I followed Google's directions to the foreshore and quickly found Hôtel Mercure Dieppe la Présidence and abandoned the motorcar in a public lot on the beach.

I had been looking forward to sleeping at this four-star hotel for weeks. Finally my chance to sleep in freezing conditions courtesy of climate control. As I was handed the room keycards, I was enthusiastically poked in the ribs and a sign in both English and French was pointed out to me. This hotel is not air conditioned it announces very matter of factly. Outraged, I flash-backed to the three different sources I consulted before making every hotel booking to verify that the hotels are in-fact air conditioned. It was 11:00 PM and being out of practice conversing in French I didn't want to try to argue or try to get a refund and go somewhere else. I got in the lift thinking it can't be too hellish. I was wrong.