Showing posts with label Day 24. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Day 24. Show all posts

Saturday, 4 August 2018

Day 33-34: Jerez, Cadiz, Zahara Spain to Gibraltar - You Know It Is Going To Get Stranger

Jerez to Cadiz to Zahara Spain to Gibraltar - 
Waking up in Jerez with the air conditioning blasting on my naked body from the vent above encouraged me to giggle first thing. I grabbed my phone and read messages from mates who live in London who complained about the heat throughout the night whilst I slept. It was predicted to be 40c/104F in the area where I was languishing in Spain but I didn't care. I planned to hang out by the hotel pool and then take advantage of the climate controlled hotel restaurant to undertake my daily professional duties with no fine dining or boozing planned (during the day at least) if only to decrease the average spend per day.

At midday, I decided to go for a swim in the hotel pool. The temperature of the water was perfect and after a few laps, I hopped out and took pride of place on a sun lounger in full view of the blue sky. It took roughly ten minutes for my skin to begin to burn which motivated me to jump into the pool again. I would repeat this same routine until some other hotel guests turned up roughly twenty minutes later. A ten-year-old (estimated) girl found a spot on the grass with whom I presume to be her parents. She pulled off her shirt which gave me a view of her bare undeveloped chest. Immediately feeling uncomfortable, I turned over on to my stomach and found a new interest in the screen of my phone and catching up on Whatsapp messages for the last two months. Then I started providing commentary about the Tottenham Hotspurs to mates in London. Any excuse not to look up and cast my eyes around the pool. When I heard the interlopers leave the immediate area and with my back burning, I jumped into the pool once again and had a look around. As the near-nude girl was still allowing her chest to enjoy the rays of the sun not far from me, I promptly retreated to the shade of the patio out of sight of the happy family. Only minutes later, another group appeared with a female teenager in tow. She quickly pulled off her bikini top and exposed herself to the sun and my line of sight. Expecting the police to turn up and remove me in handcuffs with the same pomp and ceremony as Rolf Harris, I fled to the air-conditioned hotel room. I changed and then took a seat in the restaurant to do some mundane work. Is it a thing in Europe or just Spain where teenage (young) girls go topless at the public pool and beach? Jerry Garcia from the Grateful Dead did once say that it is going to get stranger...

Not to be thwarted by the hot weather, later we ditched the Benz in the underground car park in Cadiz and wandered around after I explained the awkwardness of the hotel pool to the twink. After being denied entry into the Museum of Cadiz as it was at capacity, we wandered around the laneways of the old town and found a bar that was trading at the early hour of 6:30 PM. In Spain, not many restaurants and boozers are open so early, however, we found one and happily hopped on wooden chairs thirsty as hell. We ordered two pints of San Miguel (2€/each) and after I said 'muchas gracias' the teenage son of the bar lady entered this esteemed establishment and proclaimed to his mother that he had been caught stealing. Sadly not in honour of Perry Farrell of Jane's Addiction's legacy. Both the boy and his shirtless mate who was waiting outside the bar with his bicycle had been reported to the local police. His mother was enraged. My limited understanding of Spanish only meant that I translated the verbs in my head. Her displeasure was demonstrated when she first tried to kick and then punch the boy and call him names reserved for the playground and for horses when you lose a wager. I was happy to excuse the lack of attention to our empty glasses when she ran outside to chase away his partner in crime who incidentally had a great tan. I was a bit jealous after working so hard on mine earlier in the day. The mother rang the store la tienda in question and explained in no uncertain terms how mortified she was. The boy was then put to work cleaning our soiled pint glasses and she later apologied to the locals who were seemingly mortified watching this drama play out. She patted me on the stomach after delivering us the last round of beer that I requested and then we decided to leave, despite desperately wanting to watch the circus play out more at the bar.

A few nights prior to this I did some research and discovered a Flamenca bar operating in Cadiz. I used the numbers associated with my Monzo card to reserve a table and anticipated this event to be one of the highlights of my trip to Spain. Upon calling into the Cava Club at 8:30 PM, we were escorted to our table and given menus that for all intense purposes detailed food that was extremely good value for money. Croquettes, Jamon Iberico and wine arrived like clockwork as the Flamenca performers took the stage and demonstrated the lost art as I ate a bit and drank heavily. The establishment permitted ladies from Africa to sell their trinkets at the tables. The twink was keen to buy a leather purple elephant keyring but was shocked when the lovely lady who carried her wares on a tray upon her head announced she wanted 10€ for the custom-made souvenier. He uttered he only had a 5€ note. She gasped, shook her head violently and disgustingly groaned that the exchange would be acceptable. Was the twink supposed to barter? By the look on her face, apparently not. He now has the purple elephant attached to his overnight bag and we chuckle whenever it is spotted.

I proceeded to drink the wine with reckless abandon whilst watching the Flamenca. I got into such a state after such a quizzical day that I was unable to drive even if I illegally bothered to try. The twink got the Benz out of the parking structure somehow and drove back to Jerez which is roughly 20km from Cadiz. He later mentioned that I was unable to give proper directions and instead just held up my phone with Google Maps displaying the route back to the Ibis Hotel. Sadly, I don't recall returning to the hotel but I did wake up with a smile on my face and was quite amused by the time spent in Jerez and Cadiz.

With a hangover the next day, I conducted my early morning webex sessions with a lack of enthusiasm. It wasn't long until we fled the Ibis, gave the motorcar another quick wash at the neighbouring facility and rambled down the highway as the hot winds from hell blew. It was one of the few times that I didn't want to drive the posted speed limit as the conditions were so extreme.

We rolled into Zahara de los Atunes a little over an hour later and ditched the car at the beach. I became concerned as the air conditioning once again stopped spitting cold air and was now ejaculating an unwanted warm breeze. An impending failure is certain and I am not happy. Upon a recommendation by someone far removed from me in Manchester, we called into Restaurant 21 and enjoyed the five-course degustation lunch without much booze. The chef was a stereotypical Aussie. He didn't pick up that I was also from the best country in the world which was amusing. My accent is too bastardised it seems. We enjoyed a great meal before driving off in the warm car towards Gibraltar. It was easy to cross the border in a matter of minutes after flashing our passports. I happily ditched the Benz at the hotel instead of driving it into the water. I hate this car so much because of the air conditioning fault that I would kick the shit out of it if it wouldn't result in my hurting my foot. After much-needed showers, we presented ourselves at the hotel bar and got stuck in for the night wondering what would be in store for us in this overseas British colony.

To be continued: The Rock, Gibraltar


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Saturday, 28 July 2018

Day 24-28, Porto Portugal -

A Coruna to Sanxenxo to Braga to Guimaraes to Porto - 
After the second best sleep on this road trip (Yes, I still think back with some emotion to the morgue-like conditions at the Mercure in Biarritz, France) we checked out of the Ibis Styles with some fanfare. I did have an argument with reception as they wanted to bill me for the accommodation and I insisted that I owed only for the limited alcoholic beverages that we enjoyed in the rather sedate bar. I produced an e-mail from the hotel showing that I pre-paid and the balance due at the hotel was nil, but once again the lovely lady insisted that the hotel never debited my card because I had used points to enjoy a discount on the overarching tariff. After consulting my Monzo application three times and examining all the many transactions that had cleared, I sadly agreed with the hotel that they never charged me so with reluctant enthusiasm I entered my PIN and minutes later we drive out of the underground car park unencumbered by the trivialities of a bill and money.

Google Maps took us on the "free" route out of town as the twink had modified the settings so the AI avoided toll roads for some strange reason. I found myself driving the same road that I took the previous day to Santiago, which is lovely but when you are motoring with an alert blaring at you on the command centre of the vehicle advising that you are driving on fumes, there is not much enjoyment as you power down the scenic road. As we rolled into the service station that existed on Google Maps but had obviously shut down years prior, I became concerned that the tank would run dry. We did manage to find another service station 5km away and as the motorcar puffed to a grinding halt, I asked the twink to pump the diesel as I was in desperate need to vacate my bladder.

I ran into the shop looking for the fabled door to the toilet and when I couldn't find one, I ran outside and to the rear of the establishment. Being a bloke, I can let loose the excess fluids and thought that the back of the station would be convenient. I was wrong. There was a makeshift carwash and after sighing, I jogged up a small dirt hill into the brush thinking I could relieve myself only to find an older lady pushing herself along on a zimmer frame. Busting, I ran back to the service station. "Donde estan los servicios?" The bloke sensed I was from some other country and took great care to point me in the right direction. I made it just in time before my shorts ended up resembling the ones that the twink pissed on the other night. Joy. I returned to the motorcar and noticed that 25 litres was pumped into the tank. I sprinted to the window of the service station and pounded on the window, gesticluating madly at the twink who was graciously paying for the diesel not to do it as I needed to pump more. It is a 55 litre tank after all. After some argy-bargy with the attendant who insisted that my tank was full, I shoved the nozzle back into the Benz and pumped another 27 litres into into it. She couldn't believe that the tank that was supposedly so full, much like my bladder only minutes before this experience could accept more. I happly paid the bill one again and silenty forgave the twink knowing that he had never pumped a tank of petrol in his life and it must have been confusion being consulted by a station attendant in a language that he didn't know a word of.

Whilst drinking my fair share of the bottles of San Miguel a few nights prior, I came across a list that nominated the beach at Sanxenxo in Spain as the "2nd best" sand beach in Europe. We rambled in and ditched the motorcar on the street avoiding the cost of parking and began to wander around aimlessly. For whatever reason despite knowing that it was going to be warm, I decided to wear my fashionably torn black skinny jeans on this sunny day after feeling at home in them whilst I enjoyed the degustation only 24 hours prior. It didn't take long until I felt beads of sweat following the laws of gravity down my legs and the awkward feeling that my cotton boxer briefs provide when they become saturated with sweat. I would have been the only dickhead within 5km of this glorious beach to be wearing trousers, let alone black skinny jeans. We retreated into a beachside tapas bar and ordered the menu of the day. It consisted of octopus pulpa and one of the largest cuts of steaks that I have had in my life along with a tomato and onion salad. The daily deal also included a "jug" of wine. The server brought out a bottle of white and a bottle of red and told us in broken English to enjoy as much as we want. FML. I sighed knowing I had a few more hours to drive and polished off half the bottle. The twink guzzled his bottle of white and was ready to party as I sadly waved farewell to the amazing Sanxenxo beach, quietly hoping to return next year.

We crossed the border into Portugal after driving the coast road from Sanxenxo which as an aside is a beautiful drive. Curiously once in Portugal, the quality of the highway degraded just a bit and the driving skills of those using it declined in proportion. I found it strange that despite going 20 km/hr over the speed limit in the "slow lane" that other motorists would come within centimetres to tailgate me for a minute before passing in the fast lane. In many cases, after they passed they would slow to the speed limit so I would have to, in turn, pass them again. Madness. If this happened once or twice I wouldn't blink an eye but as you can see, I am writing about it. There are terrible drivers in Portugal and the status quo on the highway seems to be to hog two lanes, even whilst passing another vehicle. Driving here isn't as unnerving as it is in Italy though.

The next stop was Braga in Northern Portugal. It was recommended by a Portuguese colleague that provided a long list of things to do whilst in her native country. We toured the amazing Cathedral after paying 6€ to gain entry and then wandered the city and looked at other edifices that were built in His hame.

Google Maps was showing red across the small area on the outlying roads so I suggested that we drive to Born Jesus Do Monte which was also on the list that was provided. I paid the 1€ entry to get into the car park at the top of the hill and then wandered around the beautiful gardens that provide expansive views over Porto and beyond. Walking down 300 or so steps seemed like a good idea at the time to get a photo of the asymmetry of the grounds; statues and the church, but the walk up was a mare. I realised that I was in much better physical shape a month ago, and felt puffed and was a sweaty mess as we took the last step back at the summit. The church itself on the exterior is beautiful but upon presenting ourselves inside it was under renovation and signs apologised on a Kardashian scale for the inconvenience caused. Beautiful on the outside but rather shit and under renovation internally.

The next stop was Guimaeres which was also on the aforementioned hit list since this is known as the birthplace of Portugal. Again, the 10th-century castle was a recommended stop and we found a gaggle of boys hunting Pokemon at the castle gates. Nearby, the Dukes of Braganca Palace reminded me of a structure that would be found in France and after returning to the castle, the Pokemon hunters had left, allowing me to take a few amazing photographs.

The jaunt into Porto was met with traffic and it was only after a few pints at the hotel bar at Mercure Gaio that I was able to take the edge off and relax after a very long day which also included doing my day job if you can believe it.

A midday start the following day found us parking the motorcar near the beguiling Duoro River. We found a tapas restaurant where the owner was happy to pour port in anticipation of our custom, which we enjoyed along with the suggested tasting menu. It was a lovely experience until the bill came and I was told that their credit card machine was broken. "Perhaps you should put a sign on the door saying so," I suggested. The lady mumbled in broken English that a sign had been affixed but it must have fallen off. Normally, this wouldn't be a big deal, but Porto is situated on a hill and it was hot outside. I took to the streets and walked up the steep the hill to where Google advised me an ATM existed, but it was not part of my network and would not spit out Euro. I walked back down the hill to the river, found another ATM, removed money and was charged -7% of the live exchange rate and returned to pay the bill. The lesson learned is always to ask if the establishment not only accepts a card, but it is working before settling in. I was deceived by the sticker on the door saying they accept Mastercard (or Visa) so alas...

We staggered to the funicular which in theory would take us back up the hill but called in at some riverside wine bar to quench our thirst. The sun was shining and we were thirsty after walking 500m. One round of 20-year old port turned into many bottles and all sorts of tomfoolery that lasted for six hours. I stripped down to my underwear and was about to run down the promenade to the Luis I bridge to jump into the river with the other boys when I was advised that my general intoxication may lead to my drowning and was talked out of the foolish leap into the Duoro. We did somehow get the Benz out of the underground carpark and back to the Mercure just in time for the twink to heave the beautiful Port he consumed into the toilet.

The next day neither of us were feeling very energetic and I was happy to work nearly naked with the air conditioning blasting on me as I yelled at the laptop on WebEx to verify that our colleagues who work in the subcontinent were executing the approved change control that I diligently chase all week for approvals. Again, wanting to follow the list of suggested places to visit for lunch, we bathed and got down the perpetual road to Leixoes which I discovered is an industrial seaside town. We walked into the restaurant A Cozinha da Maria by chance after everything else was closed on a Monday afternoon. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is locally owned and operated for longer than my father has been alive. We were treated to some amazing service, great seafood soup and the fish of the day. I was concerned when I chomped on some fish bones and also the pit of an olive but my teeth were intact after the meal thankfully and engorged, we left and decided that I would postpone our extravagant dinner plans that night because of exhaustion and just from being spent. The Mercure hotel concierge was happy to ring the restaurant and in fluent Portuguese, thankfully rebooked our dinner reservation for the following night which allowed us to languish in the hotel bar and mercifully relax; consuming a few bottles of white Port, which enabled us to chat with fellow travellers of the night.

Feeling like a normal human being once again after sleeping in the frigid conditions overnight, I was enthusiastic about delivering my daily tasks at work. We once again drove into the centre of Porto and abandoned the vehicle. After a brisk walk down the hill, we found a shop that was advertising chocolate and port tastings. Who could say no? Three morsels of chocolate and then three glasses of Port (paired of course) was a substitute for lunch before finding our way finally to the funicular. Thankfully we were not sucked into the open arms of the wine shop where we drank for six hours only two days prior. We were delivered to the top of the city for 5€ all up, only to meander down the hill once again. We happened upon yet another wine shop where the Brazilian owner was happy to ply us with Port, cheese and meats free from the nonsense of fellow tourists and we had a chat which was utterly delightful about drugs, politics and everything Porto. We spent a few hours at his shop before liberating the motorcar from its tomb and returning to the Mercure for a needed nap.

After regenerating, we both dressed in casual black colours, with me pulling on the ripped skinny jeans once again and we drove across the bridge. We presented ourselves at Antiqvvm, which is the best restaurant highlighted in the Michelin guide and the 'the must-do' destination in Porto. We were looked at suspiciously as we presented ourselves as other tourists took photos with their Fendi bags and Americans spoke with business jargon in one corner. We were after the extended degustation, which the restaurant was happy to deliver along with three bottles of wine instead of the matching option. Although the restaurant had a great view and garden, I found it rather generic. Unlike the meal last Sunday which I talk about to this day, where all the elements were sourced from Galacia and the staff struggled to speak English equally as I struggled with Spanish, it provided a sense of regional authenticity, At Antiqvvm, I felt like I was in a restaurant in Melbourne. Don't get me wrong, it was a great meal, but after dropping 444€ I wanted more of a memorable regional experience and not a destination restaurant where the tourists are taking selfies and acting like dickheads with polished services that is tailored for those with the tourist dollars. Great food and wine, but it was nothing special that I want to return to. It did provide some Instagramable food moments though #foodporn.

After a few glasses of port at the Mercure Gaio bar to finish the night, it was time to retire feeling bloated and happy. I didn't spend enough time in Porto and hoped to do more but the one day of required downtime after the mammoth day of drinking Port in the sun disappointed me in the end. I can do better. I can manage time better. My liver can work better. The road trip is only 28 days into it after all.

Next stop: Lisbon, Portugal 


























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