Saturday, 21 July 2018

Day 20-22: Oviedo and Gijon, Spain - Antics

Bilbao to Oviedo (and) Gijon, Spain - 
The drive from Bilbao to Oviedo along the expressway took us through some remarkably green countryside. With water views off to the right, the three-hour drive was both calming and scenic despite the intermittent rain and low clouds.

I pumped a tank of diesel, bought some sliced chorizo and listened to Madonna's greatest hits blare through the old speaker mounted over the petrol pumps. I never thought I would be pumping fuel into the UK registered motorcar that I own in remote rural Spain with "Vogue" crackling through speakers that would be as old as the song. As I jiggled the nozzle into the Benz and fed it, I considered how farcical the banking system in the United Kingdom is.

Oddly I was not able to open a bank account in the UK until I converted my tourist visa to one that allowed me to legally work early last year. It was only then that I could "make an appointment" with Lloyds Bank on Oxford Street and be afforded the pleasure of opening a basic account which didn't even come with a debit card that had the contactless feature. Those who read this blog and know me would understand how inconvenient it is to push my card into the EFT machine and input my PIN everytime I buy a round at the pub. I had to suffer in silence with that basic account for a year until the bank upgraded it and sent me a debit card that had the contactless feature. It was literally the best day of the year and I celebrated by tapping it all night at a string of pubs and boozers in Soho.

As my pay for doing an honest day or two of work gets direct deposited into my Lloyds account, I applied for a credit card. It could not be pre-approved online because my credit file couldn't be found. This was no surprise since I didn't have any credit cards or at the time, even a post-paid mobile phone plan. The bank gradually increased my overdraft over a period of a few months and after trying to be preapproved for a credit card the third time around and being advised that the system can't find a credit file, I got frustrated and made an appointment to speak with someone at the local bank branch personally.

Whilst I waited for the banker, I was offered coffee and given a form to fill out which was essentially a pre-qualification for a mortgage. I promptly returned it to the bloke and chuckled. It didn't register to him that I was in the bank to get a credit card, which is difficult enough, why would they give me a home loan? The banker was cheerful when she reviewed my account. She asked if I liked living in England. If I didn't like living in London, would I be there? Eventually, the Australian weather was brought up and after explaining that in Melbourne you get four seasons in one day, she was left with a blank look on her face and she got back to business. After agreeing to upgrade my savings account to a measly 3% interest bearing one, we finally got around to applying for the credit card again. What a surprise. The system couldn't find my credit file. She ushered in her manager who spoke to me about applying for a mortgage in the future when I am a permanent resident and that I should come back in six months and talk to him about a credit card and he would see what he can do for me then.

I walked home thinking I just wasted an hour of my time. After logging on to internet banking and seeing my new savings account, I clicked on advertisement which was spruiking a Lloyds personal loan. For a laugh, I applied for it, put in an arbitrary amount, moved the repayment slider from 60 months to 23, clicked apply and on the next screen the AI asked me to type in my name and internet banking password. After complying, the system told me I was approved and the money is now in my current account. I literally stood up and gasped. The bloody bank will not give me a credit card (I only wanted one with a £500 limit) but would give me a five-figure sum of unsecured cash after spending two minutes completing an online application. It makes no sense! Anyway, a few days later I bought the Mercedes that I am currently driving around Europe in. I had planned to give money to Europcar for the pleasure like I did last year, but sadly they missed out on a wad of sweaty money from me. In a round-about way, that is the story of how I ended up pumping diesel into a car that I own in rural Spain. We live in a material world, as Madonna would say.

We rolled into Oviedo with the rain pouring down. I found the underground parking for the Ibis and ditched the Benz after being informed that parking is a mere 6€/night. It wasn't long until we were in the hotel bar. I caught up on some work and did some preparation for the next day whilst the twink did his online Google Android course. That is how he occupies himself whilst I am working. He learns to code apps. Five hours later, the bar staff lost count of the number of 2€ bottles of San Miguel that we drank. This only meant that I woke up hating life again and was dehydrated as hell as I rang into the first-morning checkpoint. Someone asked why I haven't been streaming my video the last few days. I didn't dare say because I am sitting around in my boxer briefs and scratching my testicle.

A morning of meetings and multitasking by effectively bossing around some of my colleagues who are also all based in exotic locations made me confident that we could drive to Gijon and enjoy a relaxing lunch. Gijon is thirty minutes away from Oviedo on the Spanish coast. After ditching the car in the underground parking near the slips, I emerged into the sunlight and was immediately targeted by a pigeon. Poop splattered on my shoulder and my back somehow, which put me in a foul mood. The twink suggested that I return to the car to get a wet wipe, or even change my black shirt as I have a second bag of clothes in the boot that I haven't bothered wearing yet. "Why should I care?" I queried and charged down the promenade with Restaurant Auga in my sights.

My grand entrance into this one-star Michelin restaurant was thwarted by the service manager quickly who promptly informed us that they were fully booked as he inspected the bird shit on my shirt. We retreated across the laneway to a less formal restaurant and took a seat outside. "Maybe you want to go into the bathroom and wash the shit off?" Again, flustered I commented that I don't care and nobody else should. One of the servers left a damp rag not far from me and feeling defeated I grabbed it, passed it to the twink and kindly asked him to clean me up.

A fair amount of food was delivered to our table. White asparagus, chorizo, octopus, croquettes and some other meat, breaded whole fish and some sort of sausage meat with a bleu cheese sauce. I wasn't very impressed but the twink loved it raved about the octopus and croquettes. I suggested everything tasted frozen and it was all a bit disappointing as I thought of what we could have been eating in Restaurant Auga, if I had perhaps changed my shirt earlier in the parking structure.

Nobody from work bothered me all afternoon. A few glasses of house wine were consumed before driving back to Oviedo and retiring to the hotel bar again. This time we spent a good eight hours drinking the bar dry and at times became rowdy. The hot topic was a heated discussion about lunch and how I failed in my planning by not making a booking. I promptly retrieved this device from the room along with the Michelin guide and started making reservations in Portugal and even Barcelona out of spite, even though I don't have a hotel booked in the latter. According to Monzo, I paid the bar bill right before 1:00 AM and it included twenty-five bottles of San Miguel and a pizza. It came as no surprise to find the twink in a sorry state in the morning and my pile of dirty clothes in the hotel room saturated. Sometime in the night he must have woke up confused and pissed on the floor, right where my dirty clothes were accumulating. I recall trying to steal somebody's French bulldog, but I don't recall actually going to bed. Funny what a fair amount of cheap beer will do to you.

The amusing part of this segment of our trip which consisted of two nights at the Ibis Oviedo, that we never technically explored the town of Oviedo. I drove past a hypermart and many vehicle repair shops, but nothing looked really tempting to see and get rained upon. Gijon is a pretty city and I regret not staying there instead of Oviedo, however, the hotel was cheap and should contribute to my average daily spend decreasing somewhat in the short-term.

Next stop: A Coruna, Galacia Spain.



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Friday, 20 July 2018

Day 17-20 Bilbao Spain - Hard Times

Bilbao to Guernica (and back) -
When my alarm went off first thing on Monday morning, I quickly turned it off. The fleeting memories of cheap beer and France winning the World Cup, along with a sex dream encouraged a quick return to the land of Nod. I didn't wake up an hour later as usual and instead was stirred from my slumber with the phone ringing from a London-based number at 9:37 AM. What the hell time was it? 'Jesus' I muttered as I realised that I was seven minutes late to a WebEx where I run through a list of risks, actions, issues and dependencies daily. I usually tell a few jokes, so I am confident that was sorely missed after not calling in on time on the 53rd session in a row. I apologised and blamed it on a VPN issue and was up discussing the actions of the day before my erection even subsided. How is that for efficiency?

At lunch, I wandered Bilbao and took in the sights. I walked to the Guggenheim which is poised on the bank of the river and noticed that it was in fact open. In the summer months, it is open daily which excited me for the second time as I thought that it was closed on Monday. After a lunch that consisted of baguette, cheese and salmon from the local Aldi, I returned to my daily duties and after finishing them in record time, felt motivated to lead the twink to the Guggenheim and see what the fuss is all about.

I was keen to see the Joana Vasconcelos exhibition as she is a bit whimsical. It did not disappoint and I really enjoyed what she had on offer. The highlight would have been the huge chandelier that was constructed with unused tampons and the explanation that the older lady patron gave to two small children as to what tampons are used for. The other exhibition was all about Chagall and his "breakthrough" years from 1911-1919. It was really educational and I enjoyed the audio guide accompaniment that reflected on his Jewish heritage and how his faith influenced his painting. Stunning artwork that I had not been previously exposed to and can highly recommend the exhibition. The other floor which housed Art And China After 1989 wasn't really my thing and was relatively contrived. Everything got a cursory glance, including the piece by Ai Weiwei who I find a hack and not an artist, but opinions are like arseholes, and we all have one. Then I was surprised to happen upon the permanent collection on the top floor as there are multiple pieces by Anselm Keifer. I was first exposed to his massively grand works that reflected on post-WW2 German society in Sydney at the Art Gallery of NSW. Although there was a Picasso in the Sydney museum, I always found myself looking at the Keifer's so it was fitting to find some more of his original works. There was also a Warhol, but that didn't ruin my time at the Guggenheim as I detest pop-art, and really enjoyed my visit and got took some fantastic photos, some being inside the museum and I was told off for doing so.

The Michelin guide suggested La Vina Del Ensanche as the go-to place for pintxos for lunch the next day. As they were supposedly closing for a month for holiday, I was pleased to turn up for a relaxing degustation and we ordered the great-value eight-course degustation for 30€ each. The food came out quickly and the highlight was the croquetas simply because of the amount of garlic that was used in creating them. I refrained from drinking because of austerity measures (I am trying to get the daily spend under £200/day) and knowing that I had to go back to the hotel and do some work the cost was kept to a minimum. Later we drove to Guernica (Gernika) which is the title of not only the famous Picasso painting but a town not far from Bilbao in Basque Country. During the Spanish Civil War, Franco asked his German and Italian mates for support to bomb the hell out of Guernica in the first display of the concept of Total War. The museum in town is sombre but presents a very positive theme involving peace and of course reconciliation. I found it bizarre that the Germans admitted that they took part in the bombing but to this day the Spanish have never admitted any sort of involvement. I find the Spanish Civil War very interesting and the subsequent years under Franco just as intriguing so the visit to the museum was, if not to overuse the word, a sombre experience. Even a trip to the waterfront and walking the beach at Getxo couldn't bring us out of the funk as the notion of total war overwhelmed us and our conversation for the rest of the night, which included a brief interlude in the hotel bar.

What to do on the last day after the work laptop lid was closed? Do a pintxo and bar crawl of course. Beer and food are both so cheap, we visited at least six bars and had a good laugh. One of the bar ladies demanded that I pull up my shirt so she could see some flesh before serving us which was awkward, but I played along and we ended up with a free round. We happened upon a gay bar called Soho of all things and it was as dead as a morgue even at 11:00 PM. The twink demanded food from Burger King on the way back to the hotel which was funnily much more lively than the gay bar, but the local Bilbao pintxos bars rock. I didn't feel like I was living on a budget since everything was so cheap.

The Ibis Bilbao Central hotel was basic but the air conditioning worked a treat and the car park under the building was secure and inexpensive. Two of my requirements for any stay. It was easy to secure late check-out so I could finish the usual calls and get my professional obligations in order before packing up and seamlessly moving on. The wireless internet access worked well and the hotel gave us a round of welcome beers after checking in which are never refused. I would go back to Ibis Bilbao and it is great value for money. I would certainly return to Bilbao, if not only to see a new exhibition at the Guggenheim. I would also perhaps eat at the starred restaurant, which eluded me on the last visit only because I couldn't be bothered putting on skinny jeans and experiencing beads of sweat run from my crotch down my leg all in the noble pursuit of gastronomical goodness.

Next stop: Oviedo/Gijon, Spain.


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Tuesday, 17 July 2018

Day 16: Biarritz France to Bilbao Spain via Getaria - Sing Your Life

Biarritz France to Bilbao Spain -
An early departure from beautiful Biarritz meant more time to explore the coast before the inevitable lunch booking across the border in Spain. With little traffic on the streets of Biarritz and also along the coast road made our anticipated arrival in the bustling market city of Saint-Jean-de-Luz come ahead of the planned time. Saving our massive appetites for lunch, we drove through the packed town under the auspice that parking would be a challenge and abandoned the motorcar at the beach. The old Fort de Socoa was in the distance and a morning stroll was enjoyed. The fortress was build in 1627 and boasts views 360-degree views and is a popular scuba diving spot from what I noticed.

Driving the free coast road from Biarritz to the Spanish border has to be one of my favourite drives that I have done in the last twelve months. Gorgeous views of the ocean, rolling hills and dramatic cliffs easily can easily distract the driver and of course the bicycle riders sharing the road if you are not indeed pragmatic. We rolled over the Spanish border into Basque Country without any pomp or circumstance fortunately and passed by the bus stop that I once sat at two years ago outside of Donostia San Sebastian airport when waiting for the scheduled bus to the city of San Sebastian that never came. How times have changed I pondered as I left the empty bus stop in my rearview mirror and motored down the highway toward San Sebastian.

After luckily ditching the motorcar near the beach for free, I was able to then play the role of a competent tour guide for a walking tour around the city. I previously visited this city of culinary delights two years ago on my first sojourn through Europe. Again, where has the time gone? It shouldn't have taken two years to return to San Sebastian, let alone Spain. Pressing on, we wandered through Old Town and kept our eyes on the statue of Christ who was looking down on us whilst perched atop of the hill, knowing that if we walked up the path to touch it, we would be a sweaty mess, much like I remember being when I last took on that challenge. We came across an air-conditioned pastry shop and my mouth started to water. Fruit tarts, chocolate and coffee were enjoyed before waving San Sebastian a fond farewell. When I originally planned this journey, I wanted to stay in San Sebastian for a few days but the cost of lodging was out of control as everyone else in Europe it would seem had the same idea so for this part of the trip, I have delayed an extended visit. Besides, there is so much more to see in Spain.

After a quick jaunt along the motorway, we were on the Isla de San Anton in Getaria. With its popular beaches, parking near the old town on the hill was so dramatic, I was forced to abandon the motorcar illegally on a wharf, blocking in some old boat on a trailer that had flat tyres. With the cobwebs on the wheels, I didn't think it was going anywhere anytime soon and it was in such an awkward place I was gambling that the parking police wouldn't bother visiting this out of the way area that was oddly convenient to access the restaurant we had a lunch booking at, Txoko.

When I first started to plan this excursion at a high-level, I knew that I wanted to visit Spain. Seafood is always on my mind and what better place to source it than coastal Spanish towns? Then I saw the movie "The Trip to Spain" which stars Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan and knew that I not only needed to visit Getaria in Basque Country but also this restaurant as, well, they dined there and seemed to have a good time. We did too as we stuffed our faces with grilled pulpo octopus and later a lobster paella. It was easy to drink my share of two pitchers of house sangria and would have kicked on if I didn't have to drive off the wharf. I got caught out speaking bad Spanish simply because, after two weeks in France, I was thinking about how to say things in French before translating them in my mind to Spanish. The server had a good laugh, especially when I said that I am happy to be in Spain, and not Basque Country. Much like in Catalonia, there is a huge separatist movement in the region. It just reminded me to be as politically correct as possible.

Feeling a bit tired and stuffed, we continued down the coast road towards Bilbao. Like with the segment of road between Biarritz and the Spanish (Basque) border, this drive is equally spectacular. Isolated beaches, more dramatic cliffs and remarkably green rolling hills - and because it was Sunday the roads were all but abandoned and the drive was enjoyed for a change with the air conditioning on full blast.

Arriving in Bilbao at nearly 5:00 PM on the dot meant that we had to immediately ditch the motorcar in secure underground parking and find a bar that was showing the World Cup final. I was impressed to find schooners of Heineken for an inexpensive 2.5€ which took away my sense of thirst which was carried over from lunch. When France inevitably scored, I controlled my sense of jubilation since nobody else cheered or batted an eyelid. Was I really in a bar filled with Croatian fans or did everyone just support anyone but France, which was a running theme amongst England supporters? After the sixth beer and feeling drunk, neither of us cared much and we cheered when France won, mainly because the roughest of the crowd had gone outside to smoke a pack of cigarettes. It turned out to be a fun and well-rounded Sunday that will put a smile on my face when I think back for many years to come.

Now for a few days in Bilbao, Basque Country.

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Monday, 16 July 2018

Day 14-16: Bordeaux to Biarritz via Medoc France - Bastille Day

Bordeaux to Biarritz via Saint-Estephe, France -
Despite being armed with both valid tickets to use the tram in Bordeaux and owning a motorcar with working air conditioning, my energy had dissipated to a new low and I couldn't muster one last night in the centre of Bordeaux having fun and instead opted to watch television in the hotel room with the twink. When I was out the previous many nights, he came across a McDonalds and fine dined there instead of going out himself and I sadly followed suit since I had no desire to eat in the hotel restaurant again. I could barely keep my eyes open as "The Return of the Mummy" screened on the television which of course was dubbed in French.

Despite hanging the "Do Not Disturb" lanyard on the doorknob, there was a rapping on my chamber door at approximately 10:00 AM. The knocking interrupted whatever important e-mail I was composing and I explained to housekeeping that we would be leaving at 12:00 PM, which is the check-out time. She seemed irritated as much as I was. Earlier in the week, the front desk rang the room and asked me when service could do their duty. Again, I had the "Do Not Disturb" lanyard hanging free and I was bemused that the hotel couldn't be bothered to respect the request. To put a final nail in the rather average experience that I had at the Pullman after experiencing a power outage, evacuation and a leaking room, upon checkout, the final room charges were presented to me. There was nothing out of the ordinary sadly however instead of deducting the costs out of the 500€ deposit they already took against my debit card, they ran the additional €300 in charges against it which posted immediately and then refunded the €500 deposit. That was 72 hours ago and do you think I have seen that money returned to my account? Of course not. Why would they not take the room charges out of the deposit and return the delta? It is ridiculous. Fortunately, a dent in my funds will not cause me any drama, in the short-term at least.

Onward to Saint-Estephe. Before a relaxing afternoon could be had, I pulled into a village called Dubergrier. The outdoor seating at Le Petit Verdot was free and it looked like a peaceful place to conduct the last scheduled conference call of the day. I took out my laptop, tethered it to my phone and called into the WebEx session. Only minutes later, what looked like the cast of Sons of Anarchy turned up and what was once an ideal place to make a subdued call turned into an orgy of madness. Fortunately, this call only took twenty minutes as I coughed and stuttered from within a plume of cigarette smoke. We were then immediately on our way after I knocked back a cup of coffee.

The drive through the Haut-Medoc region was lovely and worth experiencing. I dawdled on the road so I could enjoy the scenery and the various Chateaux much to the consternation of taxi drivers and locals who wanted to get down the road. Earlier in the week, the lovely lady at the wine bar in Bordeaux suggested visiting three specific winemakers. She neglected to say that I should make an appointment though so sadly no wine was enjoyed. It was probably for the best as after getting to Saint-Estephe, there was still three hours of driving ahead of us before getting to Biarritz. Even the restaurant that was suggested had stopped serving (it was 3:00 PM, so I wasn't surprised) which motivated us to visit the Carrefour supermarket and buy ham, cheese, baguette, pineapple and juice instead of sitting down at a cafe or restaurant for a change. That is one way to keep the spending down at least. 

After stopping at the ruins of Fort Medoc, along with a beach, my heavy foot enabled us to make good time on the expressway. With the windows up and the air conditioning cooling the car for a change, I could play the last album by My Chemical Romance and enjoy the drive for a change. The motorcar was ultimately ditched in a parking garage near the Mercure in Biarritz and within minutes of checking in, we were in the hotel bar using the drink vouchers that they kindly provided. One glass of wine turned into three before heading out to the promenade at the Casino Barriere and ordering a bottle of wine and watching the locals enjoy life. Coming from the nanny state of Australia, it always amazes me when I see the wayward youth drinking on the beach with reckless abandon as that would be frowned on in Oz. I thought of buying a few bottles and taking them down to the beach myself to make new friends but instead argued with the twink about Trump and Brexit, which are always topics that can stir me up on a balmy night.

After waking up at the ungodly hour of 9:00 AM, I went back to sleep and woke up again at noon. It would have been at least two years since I slept in so late. The hotel room was as dark and cold as a morgue, ideal conditions for me to regenerate. The twink didn't complain, at least until I woke him up and told him to G-YAM, which is literally translated in Chezdon-speak to Get Your Arse Moving. Lunch was scheduled around the corner from the hotel at Le Clos Basque, a notable entry in the Michelin guide. As I pondered how spending is getting out of control on this trip, glasses of champagne arrived and we were informed that the special was lobster. I didn't need to think about that choice for more than a second. After a very nice starter of salmon tartare with guacamole, the lobster and potatoes filled me up sufficiently that I bombastically proclaimed that we could, of course, save money by not enjoying dessert and only knocking back one bottle of wine.

We walked around the Biarritz and I must have sweat out the half bottle of wine that I had for lunch. I ended up with the top part of my purple shirt saturated with a line of residual sunscreen at the bottom of the wet crest; which was embarrassing, to say the least. That didn't stop us from refuelling with a few more beers on the promenade before retiring to the hotel and taking a nap. After yet another shower, we wandered down to the beach and waited an hour for sunset and the scheduled fireworks at 11:00 PM and celebrating Bastille Day. It was a great fireworks show (not as good as you would find in Sydney Harbour on New Year's Eve) but it was fun and entertained the thousands of spectators who were all very cheerful, probably because they new France would win the World Cup the next day.

After so much sleep, I was up and ready to leave Biarritz sadly at 8:00 AM. Although there are plenty of tourists at this time of year and prices for sundry items are commensurate with the season, I love Biarritz and really can't wait until I can return as it is my kind of city. This was my second trip to Biarritz, the first sadly was only three hours two years ago and it felt like it had been an eternity. I certainly will not be waiting that long before returning again. With the great beach, restaurants on offer and friendly attractive locals, I may even try to return again on this road trip if time permits. I also want to return to Bordeaux, this time with appointments scheduled to taste some wine along with a designated driver. Lesson learned.

Next stop Basque Country, Spain.


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